THE MORBIHAN
 

The only one of Brittany's départements to have a Breton name, Morbihan is also the only one with a purely southern coastline. It gets its name, which means "little sea", from the Gulf of Morbihan – a huge lagoon-like stretch of water, dotted with hundreds of islands, which opens out into the "Great Sea" of the Atlantic. With a warmer climate than the rest of Brittany, much of Morbihan has an almost sub-tropical feel, especially around the Gulf and along the estuaries like the Vilaine that cut deeply into its 300 miles of rocky shore and beaches of fine sand.

The mildness of its weather, and the hundreds of creeks and harbours along its shores, makes the Morbihan an ideal holiday destination for sailing enthusiasts of every degree of skill. La Roche-Bernard is a perfect centre for sailing, being a Port Bleu d'Europe. Facilities are excellent with well-funded resources and there is a national sailing school here. With such a convenient base you'll have the choice of sailing a glorious stretch of the Vilaine River, which is dammed by the Arzal Dam 7 kilometres down stream. Experienced sailors can pass through the lock and make for the off-shore islands, or coast along as far as the Quiberon peninsula which faces the open waters of the Atlantic on one side and the sheltered waters of Quiberon Bay on the other.

Upstream from La Roche-Bernard there is wonderful countryside as you sail the 32 kilometres towards Redon and perhaps join up with the Nantes-Brest Canal. You can take an hour-long cruise if you prefer, and have lunch on the boat.

Yes, there's always something going on to watch - even for the land-lubbers!

 
Morbihan - we are by the red circle!
 
The Gulf is as perfect for birdwatchers as it is for small-boat sailors. It has one of the highest concentrations of sea-birds along the whole Channel/North Atlantic coasts of France, with numbers varying annually from 60,000 to 100,000, including a huge wintering population of barnacle geese. At reserves in the Gulf, and on Belle-Ile and Groix, visitors can watch gulls, oystercatchers, cormorants and dozens of other species.
 

Anglers can enjoy the excitement of deep-sea fishing off Quiberon, or cast their lines from the beach, while those who prefer to do their fishing inland can catch salmon, trout, pike and perch on the Morbihan's wide choice of rivers and lakes.

Besides being a popular seaside resort, Carnac has given its name to the largest assembly of prehistoric monuments in Europe – the huge stone alignements, which stride across the heathland north of Carnac town like an army of granite soldiers. Hauled into place by Stone Age people in about 3,000 BC, their exact purpose has never been explained. Equally fascinating are the passage tombs made of huge carved stones, like those at Locmariaquer and on the island of Gavrinis, where the walls are covered with mysterious abstract designs.

 
 
Though scenically speaking it is perhaps less dramatic than the other départements, inland from the coast the Morbihan has plenty of variety. Josselin, rising sheer from the river, is the finest feudal castle in Brittany; Ste-Anne-d'Auray is its most important pilgrimage centre; and Vannes, the Morbihan's capital, is a beautifully restored old town, with its own small harbour leading down to the Gulf, battlemented town walls, and a wide moat transformed into a garden ablaze with flowers.
 
 
 

Markets

La Roche-Bernard - Thursday mornings.

Muzillac - Friday morning.

Pénestin - Wednesday morning and Sunday morning.

Questembert - Monday mornings.

Lorient - Wednesday and Saturday morning.

Hennebont - Thursday morning.

Quiberon - Saturday morning.

Carnac - Wednesday and Sunday mornings.

Auray - Monday morning.

Vannes - Wednesday and Saturday mornings.

Sarzeau -Thursday morning.

Arzon - Tuesday morning.

Le Crouesty - Summer market on Mondays.

Port-Navalo - Summer market on Friday.

St-Gildas-de-Rhuys - Sunday, plus daily in July and August.