Brittany (French Bretagne,
Breton Breizh, Gallo Bertaèyn)
is a peninsula in north-west France, hugged by the English
Channel on the north and the Bay of Biscay on the south. It
is also an administrative région of France.
The historical capital was Nantes,
but the modern capital of the region of Brittany is Rennes.
Oddly,
there are either four or five departments in Brittany, depending
which tourist book you read, or who you talk to. The département Loire-Atlantique (including
the city of Nantes) was historically part of Brittany, but is
now part of the Pays de la Loire region. A movement exists to
transfer Loire-Atlantique back to the region of Brittany. The
reason for this is that Loire-Atlantique was historically - until
the Second World War - part of Brittany, and the grand Château
of the Dukes of Brittany is at Nantes.
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Brittany
is famous for its megalithic monuments, which are scattered over
the peninsula, the largest alignments being near Carnac. The
purpose of these monuments is still unknown. The words dolmen and menhir come
from the Breton language, even though they are not used in Breton. |
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Rows
of stones at Carnac |
Prehistoric
sunset |
A
lone survivor |
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is also known for the calvaires (calvaries),
elaborately carved sculptures of crucifixion scenes, to be found
in churchyards of villages and small towns, especially in Western
Brittany. |
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Church
at Noyal-Pontivy |
Calvary
at Pleyben |
Guimiliau
Parish Close |
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economy of Brittany is based on three major activities: agriculture
(breeding cows, pigs and poultry and growing vegetables), the fishing
industry, and latterly tourism. There is no heavy industry or mining
and hence no pollution, so the air is clean and fresh. |
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Going
fishing |
Breton
trawlers |
A
lonely beach |
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the beginning of time, this land resisted the furious attacks of
nature and the scars of its tumultuous history. Along the coasts
of the English Channel, sea and land merge together in strange
ways, cutting out broad fjords named Abers by
the Bretons. The powerful waves of the Atlantic crash heavily on
some of the long sandy beaches of the southern coast. |
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Strange
rock formations |
Pounding
the shore |
Big
sea at the Ile de Bréhat |
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is also called the 'Pen rear Bed' ('the end of the World' in Breton).
The Romans came up with the term Finis terra - world's end - ,
which of course gives us the modern Finistère. La Bretagne
is the most Western land of the old European continent, last rampart
known against the marine monsters which reigned on the mysterious depths
of the ocean and the imagination of our ancestors. It is also where
the legendary city of Atlantis supposedly disappeared. |
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Populated
by fugitives from Wales, fleeing for their lives from the Angles
and the Saxons, the coasts and the forests of Brittany provided
refuge, and thus were preserved the legends and the tales of
the Celts. The heart of Brittany is still covered by the mysterious
'Forest of Brocéliande', with its Arthurian legends and
the tomb of Merlin himself. |
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The
Fountain of Youth |
Merlin's
Grave |
Many
Breton Saints lost their heads |
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visitor to Brittany is struck by the pretty granite houses with
slate roofs, the numerous medieval churches, the enclos
paroissiaux with their magnificent granite medieval
sculptures which punctuate the country roads, the tiny chapels
usually hidden away, as well as the large majestic cathedrals -
and flowers everywhere, particularly hortensias (hydrangeas) and
pelargoniums. |
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Chapel
near Roscoff |
Pretty
Chaumiere (thatched cottage) |
Créperie
in Concarneau |
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In
the heart of this country, you will find amazing untouched little
villages of granite buildings like Locronan in Finistère
where it seems that nothing changed since the last king died centuries
ago. The best of these are given the title "Petite Cité de
Caractère"
- and La Roche-Bernard in the Morbihan is one of these.
Even the language they speak among themselves the further west you
go seems from another era. They do not speak French but Breton. Everybody
can speak French nowadays, of course, but they prefer to speak Breton
in order to keep their traditions alive.
At first sight, Bretons can appear cold and hard but if you take
time to speak with them and to listen to them they will quickly show
you that no one should trust appearances. Traditionally very welcoming,
the Bretons are extraordinarily open and love to meet new people.
Travellers by necessity but also by taste and choice - and they are
France's finest sailors - the Breton welcome foreigners like family
and friends. |
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Locronan
- a medieval survival |
Pretty
Rochefort-en-Terre |
Poul
Fétan - restored as a museum |
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