The
traditional drink
of Brittany and Normandy is cider, either a rough, still
cider, similar to Somerset scrumpy or the better-known cidre
bouché, a naturally sparkling cider sold
in tightly-corked bottles. It is available dry (brut) or
sweeter (doux). Both are
made on the farms where the apples are grown. The apple-juice
ferments naturally, clouding over and then clearing as it
matures. The type of apple, the growing conditions and the
way in which the juice is treated after pressing all affect
the flavour of the finished product. |
The
finest cider is reputed to come from the farms of the Pays
d'Auge around Cambremer in
the département of Calvados in
Normandy. This département is the home of apple
brandy one of France's classic spirits. To make Calvados,
mature cider is distilled twice then left in oak casks for many
years. Some of the best and mellowest may be up to 50 years old,
but 10 to 15 years is the average. It is often drunk as a digestif between
courses or at the end of a meal.
Brittany,
too, has its equivalent of Calvados, and it is called Lambig:
however, it is much rarer and seems to be an extremely well-kept
secret. If you can get your hands on it you are in for a treat.
Its distinctive appley dryness varies according to who distilled
it. Fine de Bretagne is
a Lambig that has been aged for six years or more. Again, it
is a digestif, to be tasted
at the end of a meal. Brittany also produces an alcoholic apple apéritif, pommeau,
well worth trying.
Of
special note in Brittany are the ciders from Fouesnant,
Beg-Meil, and Pleudihen-sur-Rance. If you are travelling
via St-Malo, you might like to visit
the farm at Pleudihen whose outbuildings
house the Musée de la Pomme et
du Cidre (Apple and Cider Museum). Before visiting
the museum, take a look at the orchard and notice the different
varieties of apple trees. The varieties have quaint names such
as Chaperonnais, Jeanne
Renard, Marie Menard and Doux Évêque. Inside
the museum, the apple, its origin, the various varieties, the
diseases, cultivation and picking are all explained. At the end
there is a film illustrating the different apple-related trades
(such as cooperage and hoop-making) and a cider-tasting! |
Some
Breton cider-producing areas are even pressing for their own appelation
d'origine contrôlée (AOC) to guarantee
authentic, high-quality local production, as with French wines.
Look out for the terms cidre fermier or cidre
traditionnel, which should indicate that the cider
has been made either on small-holdings or traditionally.
You
will soon discover the popularity of cider in Brittany, as
there are shelves full of it in the supermarkets. It is a standard
accompaniment to a meal of crêpes and may be offered
on restaurant menus fixes. In
crêperies it is normal to serve it in bowls. Many of
the varieties are very dry and taste wonderful.
If
you are offered a kir breton it
will be cider mixed with a little blackcurrant (cassis)
or blackberry (mûre)
liqueur.
Poiré, or
pear cider, is also produced, but on a small scale and it is
not commercially distributed. |