|
 |
CYCLING |
| |
What
better way to discover Brittany in depth than on a bicycle -
you can go at your own speed and choose your own route, and there
is something special about getting off the beaten track and discovering
unspoilt landscapes for yourself. You will have some rare experiences,
as when you spot a kingfisher in flight, start a hare from your
path or stop to examine a rare wild flower. You can idle down
a little lane, leading either to the sea or to a river and perhaps
find a cove that motorists never see. Brittany is full of quiet
byways passing through beautiful little villages. |
| |
 |
| |
Here
is an extract from an article called "FROM REDON TO THE
SEA", taken from the "Enchanting Brittany" magazine:
You
are on holiday for a week? Feel like some quiet cycling that
will take in the green of the countryside, the blue of the
rivers and the salt of the sea, pausing for a halt in charming
villages and at historic sites? A bike trip around the Pays
de Vilaine would be excellent - you would explore the great
natural site of the Valley of the Oust and the Nantes-Brest
canal, the River Vilaine and its estuary, the beaches and ports
of southern Brittany and the Grande Brière, the most
mysterious of the great French fenlands. On the Cojoux moors
you will be astonished at the size of the megalithic site of
Saint-Just, one of the most remarkable in Brittany....
There
are delights to make you halt at every town you come across.
Your journey starts in Redon, a river-port at the junction of
the Vilaine and the Nantes-Brest canal. It was founded in 832,
at the instigation of Nominoë, the first ruler of Brittany.
The ship-owners' houses along the quays, the picturesque salt
warehouses in the rue du Port and the ancient houses in the old
part of the town all add to its character. Pedal a few more miles
and you come into romantic country. The charm of the banks of
the old river Oust will have you stopping your bike at regular
intervals, and you'll get off entirely when you see the Ile aux
Pies - Magpie Island - a little piece of land stranded in the
middle of the Oust. Then back on your saddle! In La Gacilly,
a town of flowers and craftsmen, the pretty stone houses are
neatly arranged along the banks of the Aff. Every one is a gallery
for tempting works of art. You can then stroll in the botanical
gardens belonging to Yves Rocher, or treat yourself to a boat
cruise along the waterways of the Pays Gallo. |
| |
 |
|
You
can leave your two wheels and go on foot to the lake of Le Val,
taking time to admire the second most important megalithic site
in Brittany, set in a mysterious moorland landscape. Back in the
saddle for a gentle amble to Saint-Martin-sur-Oust, where you will
have difficulty choosing between your picnic and a typical local
meal in a farmhouse inn. |
| |
|
|
| One
more push, as you have to go uphill to reach Rochefort-en-Terre,
a town full of character built in an admirable defensive position.
Its remarkable mansions and houses form an architectural whole
that is unique in Brittany - and it is one of the floweriest little
towns in France! Then a spin down tree-lined lanes to Questembert,
an attractive mediaeval town surrounded by forests of sweet chestnuts.
A few miles of main road before taking to the byways again which
lead you to the park of Branféré. Strolling round
these centuries-old botanical gardens is amazing. You may not have
time to get acquainted with the two thousand animals that roam
at liberty here, but you'll no doubt take a photo of a couple of
lemurs or a flight of ibis. |
| |
 |
|
But
don't use up all your film, as a picturesque little road takes
you to the banks of the Vilaine, and the view is worth a look.
Here is a good standpoint for gazing at La Roche-Bernard - the
tiniest of towns, but what character! Perched on a headland overlooking
the Vilaine, it was founded around 920 AD by Bernard, a viking
warlord. Its exceptional situation as a meeting-place of road
and river traffic has given it a very busy history and a particularly
thriving commercial life. The old-age charm of its houses that
grow out of the very rock; the warren of twisting alleyways that
lead down to the harbour.
Then return to your accommodation,
have a shower and a sip or two of chilled white wine before strolling
down to choose from one of the many excellent restaurants only
a short distance away. After a comfortable night's sleep, you
can finish your cycle trip to the sea the next day. |
| |
 |
|
| Pause
a few times to admire the magical estuary of the Vilaine as you
pedal gently down the coast to Tréhiguier and the mussel
beds of Pénestin. In the pretty little lighthouse up on
the headland is a visitors' centre devoted to mussel-farming. Pénestin
is a paradise for bird-watchers and shellfish-gatherers, and also
an amazing place: the Gold Mine cliff is a natural wonder. You
will stand speechless in admiration of this immense gold-coloured
rock veined with sparkling white. Legend has it that one of its
caves contains the precious metal itself....
The
above sample route follows minor metalled roads, and is suitable
for children from the age of twelve upwards. If you have the
right map ( e.g. the French IGN series), it would be very difficult
to become lost. Bikes can be hired locally if you don't want
to bring your own. |
|