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EXPLORING THE AREA AROUND LA ROCHE-BERNARD

La Roche-Bernard is set in the middle of one of perhaps the most interesting parts of North-Western France. A short distance to the west we have the beautiful Gulf of Morbihan, with the ancient city of Vannes at its head, its sprinkling of islands rich in ancient graves and standing stones, its pretty little ports, the fabulous castles of Suscinio and the Towers of Elven and its beautiful clean, sandy beaches.

To the south lies the ancient walled city of Guérande, a northern version of Carcassonne, but with its medieval walls never having been breached; the area around is one of the great salt-producing areas of Europe; there are yet more gorgeous beaches including, a few minutes' drive further south, La Baule - probably the most chic resort away from the French Riviera, with its remarkably long and beautiful beach, arguably among the finest in Europe.

To the south and slightly east is the fascinating national park of Grande Brière, the second largest wetland in France (after The Camargue), a secret land where each little village has its own special character and hidden charm, and where over the centuries the locals have eked out a living grazing sheep on the marshland, digging peat, cutting reeds and spearing eels. Boats can be hired or guided tours can be taken to see the rich variety of wildlife. There are said to be more thatched cottages in this area than in any other similarly-sized area in Europe.

As if that wasn't enough, you can wander up the River Vilaine, visit Rennes, Nantes and Vannes (none more than 40 minutes away) for shopping and really vast markets, and there are standing stones at St-Just near Redon that are said to be as important as, but far less well known than, those at Carnac. Add to that a restored medieval Paper Mill where you can see paper made using ancient methods, Branfere Wildlife Park where you can hold hands with a wallaby, boat trips, more restaurants than you could visit in thirty holidays - what more could ask for? Even the weather is a few degrees warmer than the rest of Brittany!

 
 

LA BRIÈRE

This picture offers just a taste of the haunting area of La Brière.

The National Park was created in 1970 -its duties, to create traditional housing (thatched cottages, lock-keepers houses), to restore a typical Brière village, Kerhinet, and to organise exhibits, cultural events and recreational activities.


A visit to the charming hamlet mentioned above, Kerhinet, offers excellent opportunities for photos. One of the cottages has a restored interior, revealing the typical dirt floor, furnishings and kitchen utensils that were traditionally found.

An interesting tour can be taken by horse and cart (calèche) as well as by boat (barque).

 
 
     

GUÉRANDE

The splendid walled medieval town of Guérande overlooks the sparkling salt marshes on which its fortune has long been based.The city wall was built in the 14th century and is completely intact, never having been breached in war or peace, and it is easy to see why it is such a popular setting for film-makers. The central church of St-Aubin is surrounded by a maze of winding, cobbled streets, and there are markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Amongst the art galleries and souvenir and craft shops there are still the more normal outlets - butchers, newsagents, cafes, boulangeries and estate agents. You will find that time passes quickly as you wander through Guerande's enchanted streets.

 
 
 

LA BAULE

The crowning glory of La Baule is the wonderful beach - five miles of beautiful, clean golden sand. The tide goes out a long way, too, so the beach is really expansive. When combined with the neighbouring towns of Pornichet and Le Pouliguen, you have an uninterrupted nine-mile long stretch of seafront consisting of large buildings and smart hotels.

 
 
La Baule is also packed with chic boutiques, art shops and tempting restaurants ranging from the affordable to the exclusive. During August the smart French are out in numbers, as many Parisiens have holiday homes here. Whatever the time of year, though, we often nip to La Baule for a stroll along the promenade or along the sea's edge, followed by a steaming plate of moules-frites at a favourite restaurant.
 


THE GULF of MORBIHAN

At the heart of The Morbihan lies "the little sea"- the beautiful Golf du Morbihan. (Breton for "little sea" is Mor Bihan.) It is almost entirely enclosed by land, with just a half-mile passage to the sea. It contains a generous sprinkling of islands, many littered with prehistoric remains, and the view across the Gulf constantly changes, according to the time of day, the weather and the seasons. A multitude of pretty little fishing villages line the coast, making it perfect for walking or cycling; there are mud-flats and marshes, where wading birds and other migratory species can be found, and the area is ideal for the ornithologist, the painter and the photographer.

Boat trips are available from Vannes, Auray, Port Navalo and Locmariaquer, or private motorboat or sailing dinghy can be hired to go where you please. The cairn on the island of Gavrinis is one of the most unusual and important in Brittany, and is accessible from Larmor-Baden (June to September only); the cairn is about 165 feet in diameter and contains a corridor 46 feet long, leading to an underground dolmen covered in mysterious drawings; it dates from around 4,000 BC.

Vannes is a city of great charm with a lovely medieval centre, a thriving market (Wednesday and Saturday) and a marina full of fascinating pleasure yachts; there is an aquarium, a butterfly house, an unusual Museum of Automata and a lovely Fine Arts Museum. There is a fine Aqu-Park which delights children and adults alike - Vanocéa is its name. Vannes holds an important and popular Jazz Festival at the beginning of August, and there is a Fête Historique, or Medieval Market, in July. In fact, Vannes is one of the most popular places with the French themselves, and always comes near the top in a poll of where you would most like to live.

Locmariaquer is a picturesque little fishing village on the western side of the Gulf, with excellent walks, boat trips and some enormous standing stones and ancient monuments.It has a clutch of fine restaurants too, and is close to lovely beaches. On the south- eastern side of the Gulf, known as the Rhuys Peninsula, is the wonderful Castle of Suscinio, once the hunting lodge, believe it or not, of the Dukes of Brittany. The castle has in fact been much restored, which may offend the purists, but as far as I'm concerned it is an exciting change to be able to see an ancient fortification much as it would have been, instead of the usual pile of romantic stones.

     
 
Locmariaquer
 
Beautiful Belle-Ile
 
Château de Suscinio
 
Prehistoric remains on Gavrinis