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EXPLORING
THE AREA AROUND LA ROCHE-BERNARD |
La
Roche-Bernard is
set in the middle of one of perhaps the most interesting
parts of North-Western France. A short distance to the west
we have the beautiful Gulf of Morbihan,
with the ancient city of Vannes at
its head, its sprinkling of islands rich in ancient graves
and standing stones, its pretty little ports, the fabulous
castles of Suscinio and the Towers
of Elven and its beautiful clean, sandy beaches.
To
the south lies the ancient walled city of Guérande,
a northern version of Carcassonne, but with its medieval
walls never having been breached; the area around is one
of the great salt-producing areas of Europe; there are
yet more gorgeous beaches including, a few minutes' drive
further south, La Baule -
probably the most chic resort away from the French Riviera,
with its remarkably long and beautiful beach, arguably
among the finest in Europe.
To
the south and slightly east is the fascinating national park
of Grande Brière, the
second largest wetland in France (after The Camargue), a
secret land where each little village has its own special
character and hidden charm, and where over the centuries
the locals have eked out a living grazing sheep on the marshland,
digging peat, cutting reeds and spearing eels. Boats can
be hired or guided tours can be taken to see the rich variety
of wildlife. There are said to be more thatched cottages
in this area than in any other similarly-sized area in Europe.
As
if that wasn't enough, you can wander up the River
Vilaine, visit Rennes, Nantes and Vannes (none
more than 40 minutes away) for shopping and really vast markets,
and there are standing stones at St-Just near
Redon that are said to be as important as, but far less well
known than, those at Carnac. Add to that a restored medieval
Paper Mill where you can see paper made using ancient methods, Branfere Wildlife
Park where you can hold hands with a wallaby, boat trips,
more restaurants than you could visit in thirty holidays
- what more could ask for? Even the weather is a few degrees
warmer than the rest of Brittany! |
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LA
BRIÈRE
This
picture offers just a taste of the haunting area of La
Brière.
The
National Park was created in 1970 -its duties, to create
traditional housing (thatched cottages, lock-keepers houses),
to restore a typical Brière village, Kerhinet,
and to organise exhibits, cultural events and recreational
activities.
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A visit to the charming hamlet mentioned above, Kerhinet, offers
excellent opportunities for photos. One of the cottages
has a restored interior, revealing the typical dirt floor,
furnishings and kitchen utensils that were traditionally
found.
An
interesting tour can be taken by horse and cart (calèche) as
well as by boat (barque).
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GUÉRANDE
The
splendid walled medieval town of Guérande overlooks
the sparkling salt marshes on which its fortune has long
been based.The city wall was built in the 14th century
and is completely intact, never having been breached in
war or peace, and it is easy to see why it is such a popular
setting for film-makers. The central church of St-Aubin
is surrounded by a maze of winding, cobbled streets, and
there are markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Amongst
the art galleries and souvenir and craft shops there are
still the more normal outlets - butchers, newsagents, cafes,
boulangeries and estate agents. You will find that time
passes quickly as you wander through Guerande's enchanted
streets.
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LA
BAULE
The
crowning glory of La Baule is
the wonderful beach - five miles of beautiful, clean golden
sand. The tide goes out a long way, too, so the beach is
really expansive. When combined with the neighbouring towns
of Pornichet and Le
Pouliguen, you have an uninterrupted nine-mile long
stretch of seafront consisting of large buildings and smart
hotels.
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La
Baule is
also packed with chic boutiques, art shops and tempting restaurants
ranging from the affordable to the exclusive. During August
the smart French are out in numbers, as many Parisiens have
holiday homes here. Whatever the time of year, though, we often
nip to La Baule for a stroll along the promenade or along the
sea's edge, followed by a steaming plate of moules-frites at
a favourite restaurant. |
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THE GULF of MORBIHAN
At
the heart of The Morbihan lies "the little sea"-
the beautiful Golf du Morbihan.
(Breton for "little sea" is Mor Bihan.) It is almost
entirely enclosed by land, with just a half-mile passage
to the sea. It contains a generous sprinkling of islands,
many littered with prehistoric remains, and the view across
the Gulf constantly changes, according to the time of day,
the weather and the seasons. A multitude of pretty little
fishing villages line the coast, making it perfect for walking
or cycling; there are mud-flats and marshes, where wading
birds and other migratory species can be found, and the area
is ideal for the ornithologist, the painter and the photographer.
Boat
trips are available from Vannes, Auray, Port
Navalo and Locmariaquer,
or private motorboat or sailing dinghy can be hired to go
where you please. The cairn on the island of Gavrinis is
one of the most unusual and important in Brittany, and is
accessible from Larmor-Baden (June
to September only); the cairn is about 165 feet in diameter
and contains a corridor 46 feet long, leading to an underground
dolmen covered in mysterious drawings; it dates from around
4,000 BC.
Vannes is
a city of great charm with a lovely medieval centre, a thriving
market (Wednesday and Saturday) and a marina full of fascinating
pleasure yachts; there is an aquarium, a butterfly house,
an unusual Museum of Automata and a lovely Fine Arts Museum.
There is a fine Aqu-Park which delights children and adults
alike - Vanocéa is its name. Vannes holds an important
and popular Jazz Festival at the beginning of August, and
there is a Fête Historique, or Medieval Market,
in July. In fact, Vannes is one of the most popular places
with the French themselves, and always comes near the top
in a poll of where you would most like to live.
Locmariaquer
is a picturesque little fishing village on the western side
of the Gulf, with excellent walks, boat trips and some enormous
standing stones and ancient monuments.It has a clutch of
fine restaurants too, and is close to lovely beaches. On
the south- eastern side of the Gulf, known as the Rhuys Peninsula,
is the wonderful Castle of Suscinio,
once the hunting lodge, believe it or not, of the Dukes of
Brittany. The castle has in fact been much restored, which
may offend the purists, but as far as I'm concerned it is
an exciting change to be able to see an ancient fortification
much as it would have been, instead of the usual pile of
romantic stones.
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Locmariaquer |
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Beautiful
Belle-Ile |
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Château
de Suscinio |
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Prehistoric
remains on Gavrinis |
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